Shopping in PAris
BHV
Built in 1856, BHV (le Bazar de l’Hotel de Ville) is precisely that – a bazaar-style store offering great deals on all manner of product. The homely stepsister to the city’s other fashion department stores, BHV is where the people of Paris come for inexpensive home furnishings and accessories, bed linens, bathroom fittings and all-manner of hardware requirements. But despite its long standing history BHV offers very little in the way of glamour; the building is as utilitarian as the product. So, too, the cafe: though offering decent salads, sandwiches and snacks, those seeking something really tasty are better off visiting one of the dozens of eateries in the surrounding few blocks. Services, however, are a strong point. The department store offers quotes on simple household works and renovations, diagnostic services on internet issues, and there is even a separately housed medical sales boutique selling home aids, health and hygiene products and medical instruments. There is nearby underground parking but considering BHV’s central location just opposite the Hotel de Ville (city hall) and right on the rue de Rivoli, metro and bus is a good option.
Citadium
Tucked behind Printemps and Galeries Lafayette in the 9th arrondissement, Citadium is a four-storey paradise for lovers of street and sport fashion. From Vans and Converse to Le Coq Sportif and Puma, Citadium safely covers every conceivable mainstream urban fashion statement. You will also find a small range of sporting equipment. Two restaurants take up space on the top floor. Don’t drop by if it is service you are seeking; staff numbers are few, making tracking down sizes and specific preferences an exercise in patience. Register queues, too, can stretch long on weekends with the store’s youthful client-base snapping up the latest-edition sneakers or cargo-style Carhart pants. But what it lacks in service it makes up for in atmosphere: the store runs regular brand promotions on the ground-floor, alongside the occasional concert. Sign up to the newsletter on the store’s website to receive the latest news.
Franck et Fils
Something between a department store and a megastore, Franck et Fils is where the well-heeled fashionistas in the 16th arrondissement come to rack up their credit when an excursion to Le Bon Marché or Printemps just seems like too much trouble. What used to be a rather haphazardly run local enterprise has since been bought by the luxury fashion mega-group LVMH, resulting in better service and range. Prices, naturally, have stayed in the mid-to-high range. Alongside labels such as Christian Dior, La Perla, Bobbi Brown cosmetics, Celine and Donna Karan, the store also houses its own hat atelier with tours to watch the hat construction is available when booked in advance. Due to its scaled-down nature, shoppers will generally find fewer services here than at the city’s larger department stores; there are no stunning rooftops restaurants a la Printemps or child-friendly departments as at Galeries Lafayette. You will, however, find nearby underground parking and plenty of great neighborhood eateries within shouting distance.
Galeries Lafayette
Though there are now two Galeries Lafayette locations in Paris alone, it is the complex on blvd Haussmann to which people refer when speaking of ‘Galeries’. Though the last to be built in the mid 1800 rush which saw construction of the city’s other department stores, Galeries by no means plays second-fiddle; it attracts the largest number of tourists to its multiple buildings. Most stunning architecturally is the main building, with its central atrium extending the full seven stories, topped by a dome of mosaic glass that allows colored light to flood through. Amazing, themed window displays are also worth seeing, if only once. In summer, head to the rooftop cafe and terrace for the decent food and stunning view over Paris. Galeries holds frequent fashion shows, offers shopping advice free of charge and will also perform in-house clothing alterations for a small charge. Over in the gourmet department, food-lovers can browse and eat at any of the many food stalls or enjoy a more formal dining experience at Le Chenevert. Less formal eateries are present on the sixth and fourth floors. There is underground parking and great access by public transport. One of the RER stops even comes to rest in the basement of Galeries Lafayette’s main building. Tourists can also make the most of the English-speaking welcome service on the ground floor.
Le Bon Marché
Watch the beautifully clothed shoppers streaming in the doors and you’ll soon realise Le Bon Marché represents the best of department store luxury. Attempt to count the number of gold visa cards whipped out of Vuitton wallets at the myriad luxury brand counters, from Balenciaga and Burberry to Galliano and Gaultier. Smaller and more intimate than either Galeries Lafayette or Printemps, Le Bon Marché was the city’s first department store and exudes an atmosphere of genteel chic. Services are highly personalised from the phones in the lingerie change rooms which allow you to call an assistant with no fuss, to the store’s service offering package delivery to Parisian hotels. The ground floor houses a dedicated men’s department while the elegant basement stocks luxury clothing and toys for children. As for the rest? Women’s shoes, handbags, lingerie, perfume, prêt-a-porter – you name it, Le Bon Marché stocks it. Oh, and let’s not forget La Grande Epicerie, the famed food section selling exotic fruits, delicious pastries and breads alongside an enormous range of international foods and decadent ready-made meals. Or assuage your appetite at any one of four cafes and restaurants. Underground parking is adjacent but the area is well serviced by metro and buses, incentive if ever there was to avoid driving these congested streets.
Printemps
Like Galeries Lafayette, Printemps also now exists in multiple locations across Paris and France. It is the blvd Haussmann store built in 1865, however, that is still the most impressive in terms of architecture and array of goods. Once better known for homeware, an expensive renovation in the 1990s converted Printemps in to one of the main centres for Parisian fashion; the department store is incredibly sleek with the prices to match and includes one of the largest beauty floors in the world. Laid out over three building – Printemps men, fashion and home – its hallmark is the amazing art nouveau glass cupola in the main fashion store. Printemps is known for its sale of luxury and trend labels, however store management has been equally wise in retaining high-street labels to attract a younger, less-moneyed crowd: peruse the collection of designers like Helmut Lang, check out the beaded creations of Ventilo or stick with Zara or Mango. Choice is limitless, as are services. Alongside a free image and consultancy service, parents can also make use of a free short-stay nursery for children between the ages of 2 and 9 years old. Foodwise, Printemps excels.
Carrousel du Louvre
It seems almost sacrilegious to consider housing a shopping complex in the basement of one of the world’s greatest museums, but that is exactly what has happened La Galerie du Carrousel du Louvre. There are 50 boutiques spread over 16,000 square metres specializing in fashion, music, beauty, games and hobbies alongside restaurants, parking and an exhibition space. Being part of the Louvre, services here are fantastic; wheelchair and pram hire, postal services, baggage storage and information booths in multiple languages will help smooth over any potential problems. And while some of the boutiques adhere to normal Sunday closing policy, the Virgin Megastore, at least, is open for business.
Les Forums des Halles
In existence since 1137, Les Forums des Halles must be one of the oldest shopping malls in the world. Of course there have been a few changes since then. Formerly the city’s main food market, which was moved outside Paris in 1969, it wasn’t until 1979 that these pavilions were destroyed to make way for the beginnings of the present day incarnation. Now, this combined indoor and outdoor mall boasts a 50 metre pool, gardens, two cinemas, 24 hour parking and 19 restaurants. There are also prams available for use, information points and baby change rooms. Shoppers will find an enormous range of boutiques specializing in everything from fashion, home ware and beauty to jewelry, electronics, optics and games. The cinemas and some restaurants are open Sundays. As for clientele, Les Forums des Halles has become a central meeting point for the city’s youth. The atmosphere is vibrant if the area a little grubby. One point of warning though; Les Halles does attract some unsavoury elements so beware of pickpockets and late-night visits.